Most memorable day out in the waves…
At Bondi, Australia, when I saw a large dark shadow in the crystal-clear blue water swimming right underneath me. I was struggling to make peace with dying or being maimed or whatever I thought was about to happen when it emerged. It was a free diver. I screamed anyway. All the other surfers laughed at me. I still have dreams about it.

To get in shape for the sport…
Surf as often as you can. Even when the waves are horrible. The bad days prepare you for the good ones.

My fitness tips to get in shape, post-pregnancy…
Make it fun. Don’t go to the gym. The gym is a bore. Hike, find a yoga studio you love, play sports, surf, swim, get outdoors and just go for a run once in a while. When I have to stay in the house, I do floor exercises and stretch.

My daughter and I…
Bodysurf and boogie board a lot, but she’s begging to start surfing. I’m not ready yet. I don’t feel totally confident teaching her. I need my husband’s help and he’s been making a movie all summer so we’ll teach her together when he’s finished. She’s really into skateboarding and I’m in no rush to start her surfing. Knowing her, that will be a whole new and very involved chapter.

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